A Writer’s Retreat at Drovers’ Hill: A Serene Escape in the Chilterns
Each time I sit down to begin an issue, I take a day to sketch the direction, gather inspiration and pin down the pieces. But with Autumn looming - caught between the children’s endlessly stretching summer holidays and the persistent pull of work - I needed a pause. So, when the opportunity came to escape to the newly opened Shepherd’s Huts at Drovers’ Hill, I grabbed it.
Nestled in the heart of the Chiltern Hills, just an hour from my usual Ealing chaos, the huts sit in splendid solitude on the historic Stonor Park estate. Dating back over 800 years, and still home to Lord and Lady Camoys, this is the first time the grounds have been opened up to overnight guests - and what a privilege it is. From my bedroom window, I had a view that most postcards would envy: the Grade I listed Stonor House, flanked by rolling hills and ancient woodland, with red kites wheeling overhead and a family of deer grazing nearby.
The journey there was already a delight - twisty-turny country lanes winding ever deeper into green tranquility, and not a soul in sight. I arrived to find that I was completely alone. The second shepherd's hut remained unoccupied, and the RESET Wild Spa (set to be a major wellness draw) was not yet open. It was just me, my laptop and the kind of silence you can feel in your bones. Bliss.
The hut itself - designed by Lord and Lady Camoys and handcrafted by the bespoke designers at Plankbridge - was a miniature marvel. Everything was perfectly scaled but indulgently finished: a tiny drawer-dishwasher, a log burner, a compact kitchen and a gloriously comfortable king-sized bed topped with luxury linens. The ensuite bathroom included a powerful shower lined with crackle-glaze tiles, sustainable toiletries by Commune and delightfully fluffy towels.
Each of the two huts at Drovers’ Hill tells its own story. I stayed in Redwood, named for the deep-hued wood from a Giant Redwood felled in the estate’s ancient parkland, while Quercus features a handcrafted four-poster oak bed and a bright, airy interior. Both huts offer a sense of seclusion without sacrificing comfort - modern appliances, Nespresso machines with compostable Grind pods, even a Dyson hairdryer. They’ve truly thought of everything.
I brought my own dinner, but the kitchen is fully equipped with an oven and hob, and the thoughtful welcome pack included milk, eggs, butter and freshly baked bread. Guests can also pre-order award-winning Hundred Hills sparkling wine, preserves, cheeses or ready-made meals from the estate’s on-site chef for an extra indulgent stay. If you fancy letting someone else cook, you can take a short walk to The Rumble Hut, where wood-fired pizzas by Italian chef Salvatore are served under a tipi. Or drive ten minutes into Henley-on-Thames for riverside restaurants and boutique shopping - I stopped by Henley on the way there and had a charming lunch by the water.
But the real magic of Drovers’ Hill lies in its simplicity: the uninterrupted views, the quietude, the luxury of having nowhere to be. I spent an afternoon walking through the surrounding woods, looking down over Stonor Park, momentarily casting myself as Elizabeth Bennet frolicking in the sun-drenched English countryside (though my Mr. Darcy, alas, did not appear).
For guests seeking adventure, there are miles of walking and cycling trails, and the wider Chilterns are brimming with historic towns like Marlow, Windsor and, of course, Henley. The RESET Wild Spa, opening seasonally just a short stroll from the huts, will offer cold water therapy, saunas and serene relaxation spaces -ideal for future guests looking to unwind even further.
In all, my stay was more than just a writing retreat - it was a reset. A rare moment of stillness in a world that rarely pauses. Whether you’re chasing inspiration, or simply a few days of peace, Drovers’ Hill offers countryside living at its finest.
Drovers’ Hill Shepherds’ Huts are available for two-night stays midweek and three-night stays at weekends. Prices start from £150 per night. For more information or to book, visit www.stonor.com/drovers-hill. RESET Wild Spa sessions can be booked at www.resetwildspa.co.uk.
